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Caroline Smrstik's avatar

John, this is an excellent piece. I left the US in the early 1990s, which really was another era. The casual globetrotting that is now prevalent across many cultures and social classes was not a thing, then.

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Alternative Lives R Available's avatar

The history of Nice is a history of migrants and foreigners. The original port, around the Chateau hill, was Greek. Just inland at Cimiez is the old Roman ruins, where the annual jazz festival is now held. From 800AD to 1200AD the whole coastline was repeatedly attacked by Saracens, north African and Spanish pirates (Spain was then the Muslim Umayyad Kingdom for 300 years)that raided the coast, ransacking the towns and villages and taking slaves to sell in North Africa, to the point where many towns were abandoned, including Nice and nearby Villefranche, and only rebuilt in the 1200's. The name Villefranche means a tax-free port (franchise town) set up to encourage those that fled to come back and rebuild the abandoned town.

Nice and the other coastal towns to the east then were part of the Savoy (Italian) kingdom until Napoleon III bought the region and made it part of France in the Treaty of Turin in 1860, which is why the architecture is SO typically Italian. And this tied in with the discovery of the small, very poor French fishing town of Nice by English aristos in the 1800's, not least Queen Victoria from the 1890's that made the place popular as a winter resort.

If you visit Menton, the pretty French town on the Italian border, and walk to the top of the very beautiful old town, there is a graveyard with a number of English graves from the 1800's. This was when the French Riviera was recommended as a health cure to recuperate from Tuberculosis and escape the cold, damp and polluted English air in winters. It didn't always work!

Then the American wealthy discovered the area in the 1920's, along with dozens of artists from Paris, Russia and everywhere else too, and the Russians escaping the Revolution built the largest Russian cathedral outside of Russia in the late 1800's.

Then came the escapees and refugees in WW2 heading for north Africa, and of course the German occupation that doubtless left an indelible genetic mark on the local population, especially those 'French' now in their 80's, and their descendants. Then the Algerians from the ex-French colony in 1962.

Now of course, the immigration continues; Africans, Muslims, Ukrainians, Russians, British, Irish, Americans, Italians, and many, many more. Truly a cosmopolitan city for hundreds of years.

So whatever happens next in France, and whatever shift to the Right and hard Right occurs in European politics, I would expect the internationality of Nice to continue and so protect it's population from most fascist or racist policies. Certainly white immigrants will be way down the list of perceived problems.

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